
september 2008 ? issue twelve always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 43 WINE
Bounty from Prince Edward County
By Shari Darling Prince Edward County is Ontario's newest wine region with more than a dozen wineries. What I like most is that this place is still small and quaint and winery owners are available and approachable. Each winery has its own character or is run by characters. Ed Neuser, for example, operates Waupoos Estates Winery, with wife Rita Kaimins. Ed is not a CEO-type sitting in his office and allowing part-time tour guides to introduce you to the wines. He is a farmer who loves his vines and who sits at the tasting bar to deal directly with tourists and customers. God forbid you walk into the vineyard and pick a grape. He will not hesitate to yell and tell you to "get the hell out of his vineyard!? The region's growing season is as long as that of Niagara. Most of the vineyards are close to Lake Ontario and therefore benefit from its cool summer breezes. The cool breeze travels through the vines and keeps the grapes from ripening too quickly. Wines are able to develop a good balance of sugar and acidity. The warm breezes that come from the lake in the winter have not been warm enough, however. This region does experience colder winters than those of Niagara. Some wine growers have lost vines to winter damage. But even so, wine growers and makers are still producing outstanding Norman Hardie 2007 County Pinot Noir (above) won a Gold Medal at the 2008 ArteVino Wine Awards. Sandbanks Estates Winery (below) won two Silvers and a Bronze Medal. chardonnays, pinot noirs and cabernet francs. On August 28th, I judged in the ArteVino 2008 Wine Awards in Belleville. This competition, part of an event that also celebrates art, evaluates and rewards the wines of Prince Edward County (PEC). I was blown away by the chardonnays grown and vinified here, mostly those fermented and aged in oak. The chardonnays are as great as those grown and fermented in the Niagara Peninsula. Pinot noir is also coming up in the ranks, and there are many worth trying. The wines are showing layers of flavour and good structure. PEC cabernet franc is a red variety worth purchasing, as well. The wines have surprisingly forward juicy berry character and good body. During the judging, the wines were categorized under seven styles. Wines scoring 90 or higher received gold medals. Vintages with scores of 88 to 89 took silvers, while those with scores of 86 to 87 received bronze. Rosehall Run 2006 Rosehall Vineyard chardonnay took the top scoring white wine (90 plus) this year. Norman Hardie 2007 county pinot noir achieved top scoring red (90 plus). Even if you cannot travel to Prince Edward County for wine touring, you can experience the wines by calling or emailing the wineries and having the wines delivered
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