september 2008 ? issue twelve always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 39 top. The filling was as light as the crust, containing the Italian staples: ricotta cheese, eggs and cubes of prosciutto. Fernando poured a pleasant dry white from the Arezzo region, Santa Vittoria. Norma must have spent all afternoon in the kitchen to produce her Italian version of coffee cake, presented on a rectangular silver platter. The thick coffee cream is layered between very thin slices of liquored genoise sponge. A geometric arrangement of whole roasted coffee beans decorated the top of the cream. As we discussed films and food with our host over espresso, he produced one of the only 20 bottles of vinsanto made at the villa that year. He compared it appropriately to bride's tears- sweet and pure. He explained that, unlike commercial bottles, the contadinos on private estates do not use additives to hasten fermentation. To produce these 20 bottles, they had sacrificed enough grapes for 80 bottles of wine. We thought it was worth it. When Fernando discovered our interest in the Barone wine label, he made a generous offer the next morning after breakfast. "Would you care to go down under the villa into our cellars?? With every stumbling step along a stone tunnel, we shed a century, descending through time into a cool, musty chamber. The antique wine press in the corner had been powered by man and bull for many generations. The second chamber held A Chianti vintner (above) carries on the centuries-old tradition in a private Italian cave. A clay amphora and wooden barrel (left) are functional relics. Outdoor cafés (below) further enhance exquisite Italian dining. ceiling-high 136-hectolitre tanks in which the grapes first ferment. About March, they go into the 13 barrels lined up in the third chamber. We asked the wine steward how long he had been in charge of the cellars. "All my life.? He had been born on the estate. His father had made the wine before him, his grandfather before that. They take the long view here. I tried to pin him down to a North American time line. "How long has wine been made on this estate?? "Always, forever. There never was a time when the grapes were not here.? He knew a more dramatic answer lay in the next underground chamber, where 12 amphora sit filled with the estate's dark green olive oil. He lifted a wooden lid, dipped in a spoon and handed it to us. My tongue was silenced by a mouthful of Italy. ? ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY is an inveterate world traveller and a frequent contributor to eatdrink.
eatdrink savour stratford this september 20th & 21st!6 34 40 45 14 32eatdrink? crunchy carrots & tasty tomatoesthe return to flavourslow foodbenvenuti to authentic italian ...9519 667 0535thebraywick thebraywickthe best products you'll never seegreat food ... fine wine ... good timescopper is cookware for kingsin stockelegance & simplicityvisit our newly designed & expanded showroom onta rio's west coast choco-liciousthe buzzthe sunnivue farmstore schnitzel schnitzel??????????????????????? katana kafémykonosjambalaya is jump-up world cuisine25years 28celebrate the harvest30www.relishelgin.cawalker's is a tradition to savour33foraging now easier in bayfieldwinemaker's dinner serieswhat's up, doc? carrots!chocolate carrot cakechianti culture in casks 39screen doors and sweet teacooking blue cheese pecan breadbounty from prince edward countyartevino 2008 wine award winnerswhat's brewing in craft beer culture46what do london women want?"more than a visit... an experience!?