september 2008 ? issue twelve always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 17 ture in its water bath. An au gratin is perfect for heating and presenting cheese-topped vegetables, a flambé pan adds drama to rolled crepes on special occasions. None of these pieces need to be of the heaviest quality as they are rarely subjected to the rigours of intense heat. We did invest in a thick sauteuse that David uses for making curries and his yearly ratatouille. My most frequently used piece is an unlined copper egg beating bowl. As the beaters brush against the copper, a slight amount of acid is released, helping the egg whites to rise and stiffen. Preserving pans are also unlined because the melting point of tin is lower than the boiling point of sugar and copper keeps the berries bright for jams. A friend brought me a copper Eiffel Tower cookie cutter back from Las Vegas, the modern Versailles where wealthy kings still buy copper. ? ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY is a London-based writer and an inveterate world traveller with her painter/photographer husband David Lindsay. For 30 years, they owned and
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