september 2008 ? issue twelve always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 15 When faced with shelves of dazzling store displays, narrow your choices to suit your needs. they will form a green scum. Therefore, you can not safely cook in unlined or badly scratched copper. Tin was for many years the first choice for lining, because tin melts quickly, bonds easily and conducts the heat at as fast a rate as copper. But it can wear off if abused and re-tining is a vanishing art these days. One of our friends, who grew up in India, remembers an itinerant tinsmith wandering from house to house with his charcoal brazier and pot of tin which he would melt and swirl into her mother's copper cookware. The list of tin-
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