summer 2008 • issue eleven always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 9 assumption that there are only four discernable seasons in Ontario. He pays homage on his menus to many local organic farmers, and refers to them as "unsung heroes.” For Fitzgerald, finding a steady, dependable source of local ingredients has been a gradual, sometimes frustrating, but ultimat - ely rewarding challenge that has resulted in numerous friendships. A believer in continuous employee education, he strives to keep his colleagues informed and interested in the restaurant and its suppliers. This has included field trips to McSmith's Organic Farm in St. Thomas (who supply the restaurant with organic chicken, chicken livers, vegetables and herbs) to pick wild garlic and forage for morels. In a recent Garlic's news - letter, Patrick Tuck, culinary team member and aspiring chef, writes about Fitzgerald's passionate championing of the sweeter and overall better flavour of wild garlic as opposed to the farmed domestic garlic. Garlic is still a dominant theme but in Fitzgerald's hands it is purposeful and only occasionally does it get attended special fanfare. An example is the garlic ice cream, a signature dessert. At the same time a curiosity to diners, it is also the embodiment of garlic's higher calling through its juxtaposition of savory and sweet elements when caramelized to nutty perfection. Garnished with a chocolate covered roasted garlic clove, it is accompanied by one perfect seasonal sand cherry. The use of elephant garlic, more closely related to the leek with a mild, mealy texture, served alongside Pat England's hand-picked field greens, makes a stand-out salad. On another occasion, these delicious greens are dotted with fresh local feta, toasted almonds and roasted garlic vinaigrette served in a rectangular crisp phyllo pastry vessel. A salad of Sleager Farms' crisp organic arugula with a sprinkling of St. Marys' C'est Bon goat cheese is accompanied with vanilla and anise-flavoured, crunchy organic red beets from McSmith's Farms. Garlic's menus are ambitious but never over-reaching and stay within the framework of Fitzgerald's ethical considerations. Pan-
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