summer 2008 ? issue eleven always more online @ eatdrinkmag.net 7 perfect vantage point to view the action on Richmond Street. Located steps from the Grand Theatre and a short walk to Centennial Hall, the top music venue then, Garlic's was hip, downtown, and convenient to the city's cultural glitterati at night, the daytime business crowd, the ladies who lunch and the fashionable consumer in search of retail therapy. The Garlic's brand was so well developed that it was considered an eminently franchiseable entity, a vision that was never realized. From a cook's standpoint, used properly, garlic is revelatory, indispensable and a flavour enhancer. A member of the onion family, its redolent taste and aroma emerge as its cell membranes split, releasing an enzyme called allinase. Garlic is prominent in an unparalleled number of cuisines and dishes, whether it's raw, sautéed, confited, poached or caramelized. Shakespeare never had an encouraging word to say about garlic. Folklore and pop culture persuades us that vampires are repelled by it, and the most often discussed side effect of garlic's piquant depths is its capacity to incite bad breath. Garlic is probably the reason that parsley is so ubiquitous. Also known as the lazy man's garnish, parsley contains so much chlorophyll, chewing the fresh leaves will destroy the stink of garlic on your breath. Despite raising concerns, though, garlic remains a popular ingredient. No coincidence then that Garlic's restaurant has enjoyed a decade and a half of success despite challenges in the industry and ownership changes. Each generation of owners honoured the spirit of Garlic's and made unique contributions to the brand. This also speaks to the longevity of many of its employees. Current owner Edo Pehilj worked his way through the ranks from waiter to management to become the proprietor of the rechristened Garlic's of London. Late last summer, Pehilj injected a healthy shot of adrenalin into the restaurant when he hired Executive Chef Wade Fitzgerald. Fitzgerald brought something new to the table: an aesthetic curiosity and an unpretentious ethical earthiness. During a lengthy late afternoon conversation with Chef Fitzgerald, I saw he personified the idiom "down-toearth,? attributable to his east coast sensibility and upbringing. While many young talented chefs exude confidence and arrogance, he exudes self-assurance, pragmatism and a balance of sophistication and refined rusticity. Fitzgerald was born and raised in the rural village of Baddeck, located on the shores of the fog-free waters of the Bra d'Or Lakes in the heart of Cape Breton Island. Baddeck is known as the gateway to the breathtaking seascapes and spectacular vistas of the Cabot Trail, perhaps the most scenic and picturesque drive in North America. Baddeck has a rich history and the area is known for prosperous farms that
