"The hip, cosmopolitan bistro in the heart of Downtown?

TheBraywick TheBraywick

Colin & Chef Paul invite you to try their new menu 244 Dundas St., London 519-645-6524 www.braywickbistro.ca

The Only On King

172 King Street ? London 519.936.2064 www.theonlyonking.ca Reservations Recommended

Bistro

issue eleven ? summer 2008 roasted, free-range, dry-aged Black Angus Sirloin and naturally raised, antibiotic free Berkshire Pork exclusive to Cumbrae Farms are succulent, well prepared dishes. Other main courses include: delectable pan fried, Northern Lake Erie yellow skinned wild Pickerel, slow roasted saddle of Haldi mand County Dorset Lamb, Everspring Farm slow roasted duck breast and Wild, Wild West Coast Halibut, with signature overnight tomatoes and wild mustard greens. In his recently renovated open kitchen, Fitzgerald and his team make art of local ingredients by preserving the nuances of natural flavours and aromas with meticulous concern and unpretentious earthiness. Breads, pastas, soups, stocks and reductions are all housemade. Pizza dough, made from scratch and rolled out to order, is fresh to achieve the correct height when baking. Fitzgerald tells me that, initially, some customers voiced their dissent and were reluctant to accept the change in Garlic's culinary direction. Although they may have lost some clientele, Garlic's has gained many converts and new customers who are interested in Fitzgerald's farm-to-table approach to cooking. My conversation with Fitzgerald ends with a discussion of the triumph of beating farm fresh egg whites so they mount smoothly and stiffly to achieve the perfect soufflé. For a chef worth their salt, food becomes a language and Fitzgerald speaks it fluently. And eloquently enough that, despite my skepticism, I was convinced to try the homemade garlic ice cream. You know what? I loved it. ? Garlic's of London 481 Richmond St., London 519-432-4092 www.garlicsoflondon.com Open Daily at 11am for Lunch and Dinner and Sunday Brunch BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known local chef, culinary instructor and former restaurateur. As eatdrink's "Food Writer at Large,? Bryan shares his thoughts and opinions about a wide spectrum of the culinary beat.

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