food&drink | cookbook review Summer reading lists often focus on best-seller fiction, but it's a particularly good time to check out the latest batch of cookbooks. There have been some noteworthy releases this season, and this one stands out for grilling enthusiasts. Planet Barbecue! by Steven Raichlen (Workman [Thomas Allen & Son], $28.95), is a result of a fifteen-year global jaunt of fifty countries on six continents. The book offers an interesting illustrated barbecue history, and Raichlen clarifies the difference between direct grilling and "barbecue." For the purposes of this book, his definition of barbecue means the "art of cooking with live fire," and that category covers a lot of ground. The photographs are of "real" people and food. There's nothing staged about the hundreds of photographs. There are more than 300 recipes in categories such as starters, salads, vegetables, vegetarian dishes and desserts, to name just a few. This collection will appeal to the adventurous cook who might like to try something different. Raichlen is true to the recipes by sticking to their traditional ingredients, but also offers alternatives. For example Peruvian beef kebabs (Anticuchos) are typically made with beef heart, but he suggests substituting beef rib eye steaks.
Global Grilling
Planet Barbecue! by Steven Ralchlen Reviewed by Jill Wilcox Like so many cookbook authors these days, Raichlen advocates shopping local, shopping farmer's markets, and buying organic. He adds "grill green" when possible, by using natural lump charcoal and a chimney starter to light it. Another great book from the authority on "live-fire" cooking.
Moroccan Grilled Pepper Salad
Forget about the twelfth century Koutoubia Mosque or the Jemaa el Fna (the medieval city square). The real marvel of Marrakech is its salad. Or more precisely the array of salads-anywhere from a dozen to more than 20 served at the start of a traditional formal Moroccan meal. This one will pique the interest of grill lovers: a flame-roasted pepper salad flavored with cumin, onion, and mint. Normally I would tell you to grill all of the vegetables, but here I like the traditional Moroccan contrast of smoky grilled pepper and crisp raw onions and tomatoes. Serves 4 to 6 4 green bell peppers, 5 poblano peppers, or 3 red bell peppers, plus 3 Anaheim or Cubanelle peppers 2 luscious, red ripe tomatoes, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice ½ sweet onion, cut into ¼-inch dice ½ teaspoon ground cumin 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, cilantro, or flat-leaf parsley (not too finely chopped) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, or more lemon juice Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper AdvAnCe prepArAtion: the peppers can be grilled up to 48 hours ahead. 1 Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat it to high. There is no need to brush or oil the grill grate. 2 Arrange the peppers on the hot grate and grill them until the skins are darkly browned and blistered on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side, 12 to 16 minutes in all, turning with tongs. Don't forget to grill the tops and bottoms of the peppers for 1 to 2 minutes. The idea is to char the skins completely. Transfer the grilled peppers to a cutting board and let them cool to room temperature. (No, you don't need to place them in a paper bag or bowl covered 28 | CITYWOMAN ISSUE ELEVEN: JULY/AUGUST 2010 www.citywoman.ca